Monday, November 19, 2007

Greasier Than Thou

Lawlessness is freedom is fun. Come to Greece!!
That is the slogan I will boorishly place on the motherland of all the Opolus’. I would struggle to take advantage of such anarchy because I had become institutionalized (USA, accountant, single and living in Midland Park) and am approaching age 30, but what an opportunity.

At the beginning it looked and felt like the other mountainous European “Sea” towns. It was as if there was no edge of the earth and start of the Sea, but rather the land was plopped right in the middle of the sea. It is how Cinqueterra looks in Italy and how Croatia looks on the Adriatic Coast. The weather was a bit too cool, but during the summer there are probably hordes of Greeks and foreigners swimming in the Aegean and Mediterranean sea, sun tanning like sea lions on the rocks (some of the Greeks were really quite big), and drinking Orzo, the summer Zambuca-like drink. There were mountains all around and lots of sails.

Next I was going to take on the city. I left the sea resort where I was staying and hailed a taxi who unashamedly and immediately began to rob me. First, he spoke about how he had lived in Philadelphia for the past 40 years. However, nobody from Philadelphia would order two lamb heads and talk about how his favorite part of the lamb to eat was the brain, eyes, and tongue (coming later). Then, he told me he played professional football, quarterback nonetheless, for the Washington Redskins. The man was 5 foot 6 and with his toes pointed out he was inept at walking. After a few more unbelievable lies he said “160 Euros and I will drive you around Athens for the next 5 hours”. My reply……….”Sure!”

Luke the taxi driver gave me 3 choices as follows: 1) the best nudie bar in town where if you put the right amount of money in the right spot there are no rules; 2) drive to the airport and fly to the Greek Island of Mykanos where you can do drugs and meet and greet single or married woman from dusk till dawn and back again; 3) visit the ancient ruins of the Acropolis. My reply……….…….”the Acropolis!”.

It may appear that I was 0 for 2, but the Acropolis was really unbelievable. The ancient Greeks knew how to pick their spots. While in Greece I swore that every picture taken, facing downward, was of the entire city of Athens. I wore my elf shoes (Birkenstocks), the steps were all of smooth marble, the winds were blowing at least 50 miles per hour, and I’m afraid of heights. So at one point, coming down the steps from the Temple of Athena I grabbed hold of a 65 year-old Chinese woman who held me up. She swore at me in Chinese, but I would definitely have fallen down the mountain.

After finishing with the Acropolis, I needed to see some more Panoramic views. Not really, but racing down one way streets, hopping curbs, and going through red lights I got into and rode up on a tram that went up through a mountain and I ended up outside on it’s top. There was one café on this mountain. It was all glass and I spent a couple of hours lounging and drinking coffee (with some Bailey’s in it).

About 6 hours after I had gotten picked up by the taxi driver (no longer only 160 Euros) I was starving and told Luke that I wanted authentic Greek food and drink. I ended up going to the restaurant of the best local lamb herder in Athens. Having adapted to tourism, I walked right into the kitchen and started taking pictures of rotating and cooking intestines and lambs that looked like they had been skinned about 10 minutes ago. Myself and Luke ordered some intestines, lamb, fried eggplant, some red wine in a carafe, greek salad with a block of Feta cheese, bread, and french fries. The fries tasted exactly like Great Grandma used to make in Sicily. The fries were not crispy and tasted like an oily potato. Very good though. I instructed Luke to eat only the intestines until I was full. (I told him! Nobody takes advantage of me!) To cap off the meal I had desert, which was vanilla yogurt topped and smothered in honey. The meal was a heart attack and I really only liked the french fries. Before leaving the restaurant I walked back into the kitchen, saw the butcher decapitate two lambs, place two heads in a bag and gave them to Luke the taxi driver for some good eatin. All in all, a good way to cap off the day. Har!

Here are some pictures. I’m in Croatia right now, then I’m off to Poland this weekend, to Slovakia and Romania next week, back to Croatia and then home to Czech. From October 15th to December 4th I will have been home in Prague for a total of 5 days. I have gone from wearing the same clothes everyday to wearing the same dirty clothes everyday.

I have made reservations for Mykanos in August if anyone would like to join me.

The raging sea in front of my resort.

I was looking into housing prices b/c of the fantastic view of the sea. I want to live up there and raise billy goats.





The Greek houses made it look like the middle east (as seen from movies such as the Bourne Identity)
Theatre of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, however, recently used for the performance of Yanni.


Theatre of Dionysious, the first theater.

The Great Wall of Greece
This is the entrance way into the temples and to the right was the temple to Nike Athena. This is where King Aegus threw himself into the sea b/c he thought his son Theseus was murdered. There is no sea in sight so I was skeptical.

Athens
The Parthenon built by Pericles

Mount Lycabettos. I took this picture from a rounded terrace with a Greek flag. In WWII the guard at the Acropolis wrapped himself up in the flag and killed himself when the Nazis told him to take the flag down. That is two stories of two deaths and then I almost fell down the mountain but was saved by the little Chinese lady.
This is the Erecthion, where Poseidon and Athena had a fight to see who would be the Patron of the city. Athena won and I think that is why the woman are more successful in Central and Eastern Europe as compared to the men.


Full picture of the Erecthion.


Parliament

Me and the guard for the unknown soldier. He was taller than me.
Picture from a small cafe


MMMMM, intestines.

No vegetarians in Greece.

My Croatian girlfriend Natasa.

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Croatia - BOK

I think I have found my favorite foreign word.....bok. I have had a language identity crisis since I have arrived to Central Europe. I have been in the Czech Republic, Austria, and Croatia and have heard and tried to understand Czech, which is often combined with Slovak dialect, Croatian, German, and British accent (a language of its own). Through them all I have decided on Croatian because of the word BOK. Back in the United States I spoke english, sicilian nursery rhymes (pomo-doro-oro-oro), and my own language full of weird non-words and simple noise. If you ask little Jules I often spoke a BOK language, which is basically gobbling like a turkey. For her it was amusing....I think?! While in Croatia I say BOK more than half the day, meaning both hello and goodbye. As usual, my way of connecting, in this case to home in New Jersey, is a little peculiar. Ironically, I am very much able to connect with the Croatians.

Backtracking...........After arriving back from Vienna I proceeded to park my car on a street near my flat back in Prague. Immediately my metallic blue Skoda car was missing. It could have been the fact that I parked on a hill, and me, driving stick shift, had to choose between practically parking in the middle of the street, or rolling backwards and hitting the car behind me. Without a car (possibly stolen), I decided to it was a good time to leave the Czech Republic and make my way to Croatia. Here are the last pictures in Prague....my flat.


Notice my little drying rack. I do not own a dryer. Therefore, if I actually decide to wash my sheets, then the rack will be totally covered. Choice: clean underwear or clean sheets....hmmm.


My shower, sink, and washing machine


This is the grand foyer. Yes, I find it a little strange that the toilet bowl is located in the foyer.

I have only cooked pasta and chicken fingers


My stoop

Croatia is a familiar place. It is akin to the motherland, Italy. It is nearly winter time, so NO, I am not talking about hairy armpits (males and females). The Croatians are very religious catholics, many houses including restaurants have front gates, the wine is outstanding, the politicking is abundant, people will sit, drinking coffee for hours, and there is interregion superiority complexes (Northern Italy vs. Southern Italy = Croatia vs. Slovenia). I have been in Croatia a week and have visited two restaurants and toured the center of the city of Zagreb. The people here are really friendly and feel responsible for making sure I am happy and having a good time. We are talking about trips to the vineyards and to the Adriatic Coast. Next Thursday and Friday are national holidays in Croatia. For these holidays I will be spending a lot of my time in a cemetary......yup. On the Day of the Dead, known in Croatian as Dan Mrtvih, Croatians prepare their dead family members for a "journey back to heaven" (as described by my friend Alma). All the graves at Mirogoj cemetary are visited and candles are placed on all of the graves. It's supposed to be a spectacle. Although I still haven't figured out the flash on my camera yet, I will take pictures. Here is what I have visited so far in Zagreb. The first week in November I'll be in Athens for 5 days and then another 5 days in Poland (Krakow, Warsaw, and Katovice) the beginning of the third week in November (Aunt Kathy??). In between Athens and Poland I'm visiting Bucharest, Romania and Bratislava, Slovakia.


My current residence: the Hotel Esplanade



Zagreb town center




This is the cathedral in Zagreb. It was beautiful inside and it reminded me of Florence. At the altar lays the body of Blazeni Stepinac in a glass casket. He was the archbishop of Zagreb. In the 1940's the communist government of Yugoslavia (which Croatia was a part of) ordered him to separate the Croatian church from Rome. Because he refused, he was found guilty of collaborating with the Nazis and went to prison for 16 years. In between his 16 year imprisonment, Pope Pius made him a Cardinal. The communist regime refused to let him partake in his duties of Cardinal. When he died the autopsy showed he was poisoned while imprisoned. After reading that story, I felt a little weird taking his picture.






Favorite candy store of the village people. SUPER!


Just when I thought I was lost, there are these secret passageways all over the city that will get you even more lost.

I am a big aficionado of the porch.



Jesus, overlooking the Heineken sign. After all those years of drinking wine, he probably just wants a beer!




This is my client in Croatia: PLIVA. There are multiple employees dedicated from 8:30 AM to 3 PM whose sole purpose is to provide people with fresh cappuccino, espresso, vanilla latte, multivitamin juice, etc.


Team Croatia: Karolina, Darko, Tomislov, Alma, and me.
See you soon!!

Sunday, September 16, 2007

Look What I Found

I have made it to Prague. Two and half weeks later and I have a new addiction to cappucino and espresso, I have learned to enjoy beers for dinner or don't eat, have accepted looking wrinkled and bloodied from wind-dried clothes, and have a new appreciation for cushioned soles as I have recently purchased the black New Balance "standing" shoes that barbers historically wear. If I travel to the grocery store it turns into a marathon. The order and structure in the United States resulted in the New York City street grid, but no such luck here.

I am about to start taking some Czech language lessons and have figured out banking, the grocery store, the metro, and some drinking and eating customs. I have made it out with the locals, consisting mostly of local Czech or Slovak women and British guys. My first night out I thought I was holding my ground with talking and drinking until the conversation swung to the England housing market and the life and works of Franz Kafka......and then a bigger kick to the huevos once the tequila and Zambuca shots started coming. When we made it to a club I think Radka wanted to dance and talk to me, but I was comatosed and was taxied home.

I went to Zagreb, Croatia last week and got a taste of a less expatriate influenced culture. It is very similar to Italy. There were so many people outside, lining the streets drinking eating and talking (and this was a Monday night). I went to a restaurant with no menus, but ordered my fish from the ice tray. I just picked the one with the largest body. I drank Croatian wine and drank walnut grappa. Fantastic! I'll be going back to Croatia this week, also travelling to the coast (Adriatic Sea) and will take pictures (of the women).

Next Monday, I'm driving to Vienna, Austria. Should be like driving from Midland Park to Wyckoff. God help me. Uncle Sal, you have as much pressure on you for this drive as I do. 4th gear comes after 3rd??

Here are some pictures of Prague.


Entranceway to Old Town Prague


The Town Hall Clock; on the hour the 12 Apostles do a little dance after the skeleton pulls on the rope. It was built in the 1400's.




Church of Our Lady before Tyn


Church of St. Nicholas




Distant view of Prague Castle, on the other side of the Vltava River; you can spend days up there looking at art from the 15th century, chapels, convents, and trying to make the guards at the gate laugh....fart noises don't work like they used to.


Entranceway to Charles Bridge, to cross the Vltava River, built in 1300's.


On Charles Bridge

Prague Castle


My favorite blind singer after Bocelli; she sings a really good Ave Maria


The saint on the bottom of the statue is polished gold b/c people rub him for good luck.




Charles Bridge


View of Prague from the Castle


The Eiffel Tower of Prague built in 1891. Dave, I'll race you to the top!


My first two days in Prague, until I realized that all I had to do was give the policie $20.00.


Do cameras have flashes anymore??


My apartment building on Na Zderaze


My Street on Na Zderaze. I've been knocking on doors, looking for a football game on the street.


The Dancing House, right up the street from me w/ a great French restaurant and roof-top drinking.


This is where I work: Deloitte & Touche Praha


Yours truly. See you soon. Oh my god is my eye red?!?